Fashion

A Brief History of the Coat: Everything You Need to Know

If you look into history, it is paradoxical, but only men could wear a coat until almost the 18th century. Men's coats appeared and were used for tens of centuries before the appearance of this type of toilet in women's wardrobe.
clothing apparel person human coat overcoat bicycle bike vehicle transportation

A single or double-breasted coat originally came in the 18th century from the Spanish provinces, where it was considered a worker-peasant version of clothing. Then such clothes were called palletoque - from two words: pallium "loose cloak" and toque "headdress".

Over the years, a comfortable and functional item has gradually gained attention in other European countries - France, England, Russia - and in each of these countries, this type of clothing has followed its own development path. So, it was the British who gave the clothing of the Spanish commoners' variety, aristocracy, and elegance.

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The Gazette of Fashion, 1872

In the East, a coat (at that time it was also called a robe) was not only comfortable clothing but also an indicator of status. Subordinates were given a robe as a gift and at the same time promoted. They were decorated with embroidery, fur, decoration, various details were sewn on.

In China, from embroidery on coats, people understood who was in front of them. For example, a stork meant the highest rank of an official, but an embroidered magpie on a coat was worn only by peasants.

From nomads who traveled the world along the famous "Silk Road" that Marco Polo paved through Mongolia, Africa, South Asia, and to the countries of the Middle East, the fashion for the decoration of outerwear has gone. Symbolism has always been invested in patterns and embroidery, which would help the wearer in his mission, bring good luck, protect and protect.

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A pair of Chinese late Qing dynasty ancestor portraits showing a senior official of the third rank and his wife, China, late 19th century, Chui Xuchong © RICHARD REDDING ANTIQUES LTD
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© @valyagry

In Russia, one could hear the word "coat" extremely rarely. Men's clothing of this type was called by the names that it received in honor of its creator - "Spencer", "Carrick", "Chesterfield". A. Pushkin did not even know such a word as "coat", the first sample of such outerwear appeared in rainy St. Petersburg only a year after the death of the classic, that is, in 1838.

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Double-breasted, velvet-collared Chesterfield topcoat, 1937; Anthony Eden wearing a chesterfield coat © Crawford Clothes, Inc./The New York Public Library
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Carrik coat, 1812 © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Amsterdam Museum

One day a Scotsman got wet in the rain on his way home from work. One of the sleeves of his cloak was stained with rubber. He saw that the dirty sleeve was not wet at all and this prompted him to create a fabric that does not allow water to pass through. The inventor's name was Charles Mackintosh, who is the creator of the cloak of the same name. He received a patent for his invention and began to produce waterproof raincoats "Mac". In the 18th century, the coat was very long, so a button was sewn onto its back, for which they hooked the floor so as not to get dirty.

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Macintosh coat, 1893 © Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. catalog, archive.org
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SS 2020 collection Jil Sander x Mackintosh

Interesting facts about the origin of this wardrobe item

  • Few people know that when British Marshal Raglan lost his upper limb in battle, he asked to develop a unique style of outerwear for him. So raglan models appeared, characterized by an interesting cut of the sleeves.

  • The product, similar to the style with a frock coat, was born thanks to Lord Chesterfield.

  • Politician George Spencer made the shortcut of this piece of clothing relevant.

  • A distant relative of the coat is the "caftan". The latter was popular with various segments of the population. Peasant styles were sewn from cloth, and boyars' styles were made from brocade.

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Field Marshal Fitzroy Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan, 1855
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Max Mara's 101801 Icon raglan sleeve coat

At the end of the 19th century, women began to actively copy the clothes of men. Quilted jackets and soul warmers - this is what ordinary women had to wear. But even then, fashionable outerwear, which was sewn from high-quality natural fabrics in Europe, began to be divided into original styles.

There are three versions of its silhouette - straight, trapezoidal, and fitted. And also two lengths - commonly used long and short usual for sports models. The midi length and flared silhouette appeared on the catwalks much later.

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Prada FW 2013 collection © Marcus Tondo, GoRunway

PS Around the World Coat

Nelly Bly is a Pittsburgh-based journalist who decided to break the record for the hero of the novel by Jules Verne and circle the earth in less than 80 days. An unheard-of audacity for 1889!

So, on November 14, 1889, at half-past nine in the morning, the mad race was started. The crazy woman took nothing with her except her beloved travel coat, a watch, a changeable woolen dress, a set of pencils, and £ 200 given to her by Joseph Pulitzer, editor of New York World (the future founder of the prestigious Pulitzer Prize).

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Nellie Bly © McLoughlin Bros.

Interestingly, at the same time, the popular magazine Cosmopolitan sent his employee around the world. Only Elizabeth Bisland had to move in the opposite direction. Bookmakers in a rush accepted bets: "Which of the ladies will cope with the task faster?" The majority believed that it would not be possible to carry out their plans at all.

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JW Brown & Co., High Grade Canned Goods, No. 103 Arch Street, Phila. / Wilson Biscuit Co., Manufacturers of Faultless Biscuit, Cakes, and Crackers, 210, 212, 214 N. Front Street, Philadelphia / W. Brown & Co., High Grade Canned Goods, No. 103 Arch Street, Phila. / (Philadelphia, ca. 1890).

Why Nellie Bly chose a plaid coat for the trip is still unknown. She circled the Earth in 72 days 6 hours, 10 minutes, and 11 seconds. And Elizabeth Bisland of Cosmopolitan finished four days late, missing a steamer in Southampton. Just imagine the scale of the popularity of plaid coats during this period.

And by the way, PRADA in winter 2013 was clearly inspired by Nelly Bly.

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Giovanna Battaglia wearing Prada Plaid coat © styledumonde.com

Author:
Valentina Grishchenko

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