Dior Men SS24: On the occasion of its 5th anniversary, Kim Jones honors his predecessors
From Yves Saint Laurent silhouettes to Gianfranco Ferré embroidery; from Monsieur Dior's cabochons to Marc Bohan's textures. The Dior Men SS24 collection is a collage of gender fluid influences.
FROM "NEW LOOK" TO "NEW WAVE"
Dior is a house of haute couture: here everything revolves around the clothes. At the heart of Dior are silhouette, form, technology and workmanship at the highest level. I think that in the five years I've been here - this is my fifth anniversary show and collection - I've never forgotten that. It's a culture we've inherited from women's fashion past and applied to men's fashion today. And for the first time in our collections, it's a collage of influences from various Dior predecessors and eras that we wanted to pay tribute to at the same time - along with some of our own. All are tied together by texture and technique, along with some of Dior's pop icons, most notably the Cannage, according to Kim Jones .
In this collection, shown for the fifth time at Dior , Kim Jones combines his own autobiography with that of Yves Saint Laurent , again focusing on the artistic director's silhouettes, which he recreates and transforms for his summer collection. The men's stories intertwine with a fusion of the masculine and feminine, where British tailoring traditions and materials meet those of haute couture , revealing womenswear's roots in the men's world.
Everything permeates with a sense of fresh, playful modernity, practicality and lightness. Here the appearance of simple and archetypal menswear items such as Harrington, polo, crew neck and cardigan are transformed from the ordinary to the extraordinary through symbolic techniques that cross time and styles at Dior: tweed, embroidery and braiding.
Saint Laurent's tailoring is once again transferred to the men's world, with a particular focus on the volumes, slits, pleats and necklines of his 1959 collections. Here they appear effortlessly in relaxed, masculine suits, summery ensembles and sweeping coats. The shoes, on the other hand, are inspired by the 1995 Lady Dior bag, with a new circular logo on the loafers and slides, intentionally reminiscent of New Wave crepe. Stephen Jones reinterprets the fashionable New Wave hats, which are also part of the Liberty Caps. Here the cockade is replaced by "ronghua", exquisite velvet flowers made in China since the Tang Dynasty (618-907). In adapting the colors for the collection, the Ronghua masters worked closely with the Dior ateliers to transform their tradition and celebrate today's elegance more than ever.
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Photos: PR
